The Revival of Natural Dyeing in Abra

 

 

The encounter between the two artists brought the KFF into the picture. Ms. Tesoro recognized the need to improve the methodology of the existing traditional method which oftentimes met problems in reproduction of colors and colorfastness of the dyed materials. Aware that the Philippine Textile Research Institute (PTRI), an agency of the Department of Science and Technology (DOST), undertakes studies on natural dyes, Ms. Tesoro approached and sought its assistance.

 

This started the implementation of the KFF project titled “The Revival and Upgrading of the Traditional Dyeing in Abra” through the financial assistance of Coca-Cola Foundation Philippines, Inc. (CCFPI). The project aimed to revive and promote indigenous natural dyeing techniques throughout the country for livelihood and entrepreneurship purposes. The project was designed as teamwork effort among the KFF as executing agency, PTRI, the Abra State Institute of Science and Technology (ASIST), and the Abra Local Government Unit (LGU). PTRI handled the research, technology development, and training of the beneficiaries. ASIST conducted research and development on the propagation of natural dye-yielding plant species. The LGU provided local government support to the project.

 

An initial assessment survey was conducted on the traditional dyeing practices of the indigenous people by PTRI together with KFF. The findings of the survey served as basis for the recommendation on improvement and commercial production of natural dyes. It was observed that a number of malpractices and lack of knowledge on the critical factors affecting the extraction and dyeing processes were committed.  They usually used waste yarns from textile mills. Material compositions were not properly identified and cleaned from dirt, oils, grease, and starches. In their dye application process, no mordant or fixing agent was used. Neither specific liquor ratio nor sense of time was effected during the extraction and dye application. Thorough rinsing was never considered to remove excess dyes.

 

Aware of these findings, PTRI conducted an extensive research on natural dye technology. The Institute was able to develop and package the traditional method of natural dye technology with scientific interventions. The upgraded technology detailed exact measurements for specific dye sources with appropriate sizes for better dye extraction. Specific liquor ratios, time, concentration, and use of effective fixing agents were applied to attain better dye ability. The upgraded technology reduced processes from 15 days to two hours and eliminated the use of sukang iloko, which weakens the yarns. For better colorfastness, the materials were washed with soap and rinsed thoroughly to remove excess dyes.

 

In 1996, equipped with the upgraded natural dye technology, the first technology transfer was conducted to improve and upgrade the traditional natural dye extraction and application technologies of Abra. A seminar workshop was conducted by PTRI experts to emphasize the importance of the upgraded technology to the beneficiaries for their full appreciation and understanding. There was a lecture session, hands-on training, and open forum to measure the participants’ acceptance or adoption of technology.

 

They were made to understand that their traditional inconsistent practices contributed to the poor quality of their end-products. It was attended by 40 participants, who were mostly weavers, a traditional dyers’ group headed by Mang Luis, the Provincial Administrator, Mr. Diosdado “Dado” Cariño, and officials of the Timpuyog Dagiti Inna Ti Abra  (TDITA). TDITA is an association of mothers in Abra chaired by the governor’s wife, who enjoined every barangay in all 27 towns to plant dye sources, dreaming that this may eventually make Abra the first “natural dye capital of the Philippines”.

 

Like most traditionalists, the rural folk were initially reluctant to learn, much less adopt the suggested process. Even Mang Luis felt threatened that the traditional dyeing secret handed down from generation to the next would be stolen and more frightening, a number of competitors in the trade would surface.

 

On the other hand, Mr. Diosdado Zapata Cariño, a Bachelor of Arts in Philosophy graduate and Abra’s Provincial Administrator cum LGU coordinator for the project, was very receptive and appreciative of the upgraded technology. He asserted that “There is future for natural dyes and it could provide an opportunity for livelihood projects in Abra.”

 

Realizing the effect of the cooperative efforts to the people of Abra, Mang Luis, the other members of the IPs, and Mr. Cariño formed two cooperatives. The Librada’s Looms and Antiques Cooperative was managed by Librada Agaid and Dado’s Designs by Mr. Cariño. At that time, they were actively engaged in the cultivation and propagation of the identified natural dye-yielding plants. These plants were utilized for their production of handcrafted naturally dyed novelty textiles, injecting the process they learned from PTRI.  Consequently, a common service facility (CSF) for natural dye extraction powder production and textile application was established in Namarabar, Abra. This was to facilitate the needs of the project’s beneficiaries. Another technology transfer in 1997 was conducted for the members of the newly established cooperatives. This time it included new developed processes to produce another array of colors from their identified dye sources. In addition, an initial training on the operation of the spray drier for powder production was introduced. The technology not only improved the quality of the dyed materials but also led to enhanced reforestation activities in the area.