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For textile application, indigenous fibers like abaca, banana, pineapple and kenaf have to undergo pretreatment or degumming after the extraction of the fibers due to their inherent hardness and high non-fibrous content. The technology modifies the raw fiber properties to cater to the processing requirements for textiles. Employing a series of chemical and mechanical treatments, with or without microbiological aid, the developed technology imparts an optimum balance of fiber properties such as gum content, fineness, strength and inter-fiber cohesion. The fibers once treated with the optimum pretreatment condition are spun separately in blend with other textile fibers into medium to coarse yarns of acceptable properties.




The yarns developed from indigenous fibers are woven into apparels, home linens and upholsteries. The PTRI established bio-finishing treatment is applied to the fabrics to improve their handle and remove or minimize protruding hours and fuzz.


A pedal driven mechanized handspinning machine was developed for the manufacture of yarns from silk wastes. Handspinning provides an outlet for an individual's artistic expression with the development of fancy or novelty yarns. The surface irregularities inherent in the developed hand-spun yarns produce aesthetic effect and eye appeals that are lacking in conventionally manufactured yarns.


The upgraded natural dyeing technology involves more systematic and scientific methods of dye extraction and textile application. The extraction of dye is done by grinding/chopping, boiling and filtering to collect the liquid crude extract. Also, time duration and liquor ratio in extraction/dyeing are observed as well as pretreatment of the textile materials by scouring and mordanting. 

Aside from the crude extract, natural dyes are also produced in powdered form with the use of a spray dryer. Powder dyes and liquid extracts have superior affinity to silk and wool materials and to cellulosic fibers, yarns and fabric.

The standardized process facilitated a simpler and shorter dyeing procedure and resulted to improved quality and colorfast dyed materials.


The technology of producing dye powder from talisay, bulubulu, karimbubua, luam and guava leaves; sapang and narra wood; yellow ginger rhizome and atsuete seeds had been established. The technology includes the effective extraction methods fast drying using spray dryer to convert the extract into powder form. The dye powder has superior affinity to silk and wool materials and also applicable to cellulose materials such as ramie, cotton, abaca and rayon. Similar to synthetic dyes, the natural dye powder has good shelf life and reproducibility as well as exhibit good colorfastness to washing and light when applied to the materials.


Moriculture is that phase of sericulture, which includes the propagation, and culture of mulberry for leaf production. Since the mulberry leaf is the exclusive food of the silkworm (Bombyx mori), optimum leaf production are synchronized with the rearing periods suited to certain regions. Likewise, the cultural management of the mulberry plant such as irrigation, pruning and fertilizer application is done regularly to ensure sustained production of mulberry leaves.


The technology involves the rearing of silkworms up to cocoon spinning and harvesting.

Silkworm rearing for cocoon production deals mainly on the larval stage of the silkworm, the only stage in the life of the insect wherein it takes food for its growth.  The silkworm requires proper feeding at regular intervals for 24-26 days from hatching until they are ready to spin cocoons.  Provisions for suitable temperature and humidity of the rearing house, strict sanitation and cleanliness, proper techniques on disease control, sufficient space and constant observation are necessary throughout the rearing period.

Once the worms mature, they are gathered and mounted on cocooning frames where they spin their cocoons.  A week after mounting, the cocoons are harvested.


Newly harvested cocoons undergo post harvest processes to ensure the quality of silk filament extracted thereof.  The technology involves three processes namely deflossing, sorting and drying.  Floss covering of cocoons eliminated to prevent the easy absorption of moisture that causes damage to the quality of cocoons.  Drying is employed immediately after deflossing to prevent emergence of moth which leads to the destruction of the continuous length of silk filament.  Likewise, sorting is done to separate defective from the reelable cocoons which are further processed into quality raw silk yarns.


Cocoon reeling or filature is the industrial phase of sericulture, which involves the production of raw silk yarn for weaving purposes. It is the process of unwinding the cocoon filaments from cooked cocoons using the reeling machine.


PTRI has localized/established the processing conditions for the manufacture of thrown silk from the locally produced raw silk.

The process of throwing involves the coupling of two or more filaments together and imparting a certain amount of twist in accordance with specific end-use. Different types of thrown silk yarns could be developed ranging from low twist tram to medium and high twists organize suitable for warp and weft in weaving.

The technology permits the production of an array of silk fabrics, from jusi/barong material to the lustrous satin, organdy and crepe for garments and fashion accessories.


PTRI established a degumming technology intended for thrown silk yarns and silk fabrics using soap-soda method.  The process involves the removal of waxes, oils, coloring matters and gums, referred to as sericin, present in the silk fibers.  Elimination of the impurities renders the material soft and lustrous thus showing off the good attributes inherent to silk.  Degumming can also be employed at different degrees, e.g. partial and complete degumming, depending on the end use and the total effect desired of the material.


Defective cocoons such as pierced cocoons, double cocoons, stained, bed stained and soft cocoons are all unreliable. These defective cocoons when degummed yield the raw material for spun silk production. The degummed wastes are opened by hand to form slivers which are then fed manually into the handspinning machine. The operator of the machine controls the thickness and evenness of hand spun silk. The uneven characteristic of the hand spun silk when used as weft in handweaving gives a special weaving design effect enhancing the aesthetic appearance on the woven fabric. Technology and equipment are available in PTRI.


The developed technology involves the chemical modification of the castor bean oil into textile oil and its many versatile applications in the textile and textile related industries. It involves the conversion of the oil into textile oil through the sulfonation process. The developed product at specified concentrations is applied as wetting and softening agents for indigenous fibers, anti-static agent for the re-reeling of raw silk, dispersing agent for polyester dyeing and softener for leather.


The PTRI has developed a technology on the extraction of sodium alginate from sargassum seaweeds. The technology involves formalin pretreatment, acid treatment, maceration in alkaline medium, filtration, alcoholic precipitation and drying. The established method produces an extract that is used as thickener in silkscreen or roller printing and exhibits comparable properties and performance in terms of solubility, ease of preparation and colorfastness of the printed fabrics to the commercial sodium alginate thickener used by some textile mills.


This portable handloom was developed in support to the improvement of the handloom weaving industry and the government program on uplifting the welfare of disabled persons. Aside from the therapeutic benefits, the handloom could enable disabled persons generate income and become significant contributor to employment generation and foreign earnings. The 36" portable loom is adaptable to the wheel chair and is easily and comfortably manipulated by hand.

Unlike the conventional foot pedal handlooms, shedding, weft insertion and beating could be done by hands. This loom is capable of producing a maximum of 36-inch width fabric as in apparel and other textile products.

This would definitely support the program of the government in promoting the welfare of the recorded 55,000 paraplegics ages from 15-69. If 20% of them will engage in weaving of placemats, shawls or equivalent product, P 671M could be generated. Furthermore, if 50% of the actual production is exported the country could generate USD 146,000 in gross receipts.


Handloom woven product is one of the non-traditional export contributors of the country's foreign earnings. This technology is designed to assist the weaving industry in improving the external appearance of the fabric by diversifying the design through the introduction of 4-harness designing, color combination and material elements focusing on the indigenous fibers.

The technology on designing can create a variegated and appealing texture with definite commercial possibilities over the traditional, stereotype designs of the handloom woven fabric. This will ensure product competitiveness in terms of price, quality and fashion needs which will result to increase in added value and export earnings for the industry.


The technology involves weaving fine abaca fibers to a predetermined fabric construction, followed by chemical treatment and repeated mechanical softening by pressing thus imparting to the fabric the desired flattened, supple compact appearance. The use of a motorized rotary press for the purpose assures faster and more efficient quality control of the finished material than the traditional normal hammering process using the wooden mallet. Since the process does not limits its utilization to abaca but also to pineapple and other indigenous products this would ensure production of a wide variety of soft and smooth materials for apparel, shoes, bags, interior design materials, gifts and house wares and fashion accessories for the generation of foreign exchange earnings.

Pinukpok processing technology finds best applications in the Bicol region where 53,508 hectares of land area or 50% of the country's total abaca plantation are planted to abaca. It will alleviate poverty of the abaca farmers, laborers and their dependents who are enduring submarginal existence brought about by limited demand of cordage and other abaca products. It would also improve the quality of life of more than 3,000 handloom weavers in the same region because of the higher earning capability brought about by increased usability and high price of finished products. Instead of producing sinamay which costs only P10.00 per yard, a weaver could produce abaca fabric for pinukpok for could be commercialized up to P400.00 per yard.

The process will increase the growing demand for indigenous garments in the world market thus, generating additional foreign exchange earnings for the government. It will also enhance the country's competitiveness as it utilizes abaca fibers abundantly produced at 60,000 metric tons per annum which is 85% of the world abaca production.


The technology involves pretreatment process (scouring and/or bleaching) and the proper dyeing procedures using the prescribed dyestuff for particular types of fibers. The technology shall enhance the aesthetic appeal and improve the quality of indigenous for handicraft products which serve as one of the major dollar earners of the country.

The pretreatment and dyeing technology will promote the growth of fashion accessories (FA), Christmas decors (CD) and gifts, toys and housewares (GTH) sectors in the world market. The utilization of the technology provides significant improvement in the quality of dyed natural materials and substantial savings in production cost particularly in chemicals, dyes and auxiliaries (CDA) consumption.

Furthermore, the technology will generate employment in the regions considering that FA, CD and GTH are labor intensive.

The technology would also encourage the utilization of indigenous materials as component of the above sectors.

 
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