For
textile application, indigenous fibers
like abaca, banana, pineapple and
kenaf have to undergo pretreatment or
degumming after the extraction of the
fibers due to their inherent hardness
and high non-fibrous content. The
technology modifies the raw fiber
properties to cater to the processing
requirements for textiles. Employing a
series of chemical and mechanical
treatments, with or without
microbiological aid, the developed
technology imparts an optimum balance
of fiber properties such as gum
content, fineness, strength and
inter-fiber cohesion. The fibers once
treated with the optimum pretreatment
condition are spun separately in blend
with other textile fibers into medium
to coarse yarns of acceptable
properties.
The
yarns developed from indigenous fibers
are woven into apparels, home linens
and upholsteries. The PTRI established
bio-finishing treatment is applied to
the fabrics to improve their handle
and remove or minimize protruding
hours and fuzz.
A
pedal driven mechanized handspinning
machine was developed for the
manufacture of yarns from silk wastes.
Handspinning provides an outlet for an
individual's artistic expression
with the development of fancy or
novelty yarns. The surface
irregularities inherent in the
developed hand-spun yarns produce
aesthetic effect and eye appeals that
are lacking in conventionally
manufactured yarns.
The
upgraded natural dyeing technology
involves more systematic and
scientific methods of dye extraction and
textile application. The extraction of
dye is done by grinding/chopping,
boiling and filtering to collect the
liquid crude extract. Also, time
duration and liquor ratio in
extraction/dyeing are observed as well
as pretreatment of the textile
materials by scouring and mordanting.
Aside from the crude extract, natural
dyes are also produced in powdered
form with the use of a spray dryer.
Powder dyes and liquid extracts have
superior affinity to silk and wool
materials and to cellulosic fibers,
yarns and fabric.
The standardized process facilitated a
simpler and shorter dyeing procedure
and resulted to improved quality and
colorfast dyed materials.
The
technology of producing dye powder
from
talisay, bulubulu, karimbubua,
luam and guava leaves; sapang and
narra wood; yellow ginger rhizome and
atsuete seeds had been established.
The technology includes the effective
extraction methods fast drying using
spray dryer to convert the extract
into powder form. The dye powder has superior
affinity to silk and wool materials
and also applicable to cellulose
materials such as ramie, cotton, abaca
and rayon. Similar to synthetic dyes,
the natural dye powder has good
shelf life and reproducibility as well
as exhibit good colorfastness
to washing and light when applied to
the materials.
Moriculture
is that phase of sericulture, which
includes the propagation, and culture
of mulberry for leaf production. Since
the mulberry leaf is the exclusive
food of the silkworm (Bombyx mori),
optimum leaf production are
synchronized with the rearing periods
suited to certain regions. Likewise,
the cultural management of the
mulberry plant such as irrigation,
pruning and fertilizer application is
done regularly to ensure sustained
production of mulberry leaves.
The
technology involves the rearing of
silkworms up to cocoon spinning and
harvesting.
Silkworm
rearing for cocoon production deals
mainly on the larval stage of the
silkworm, the only stage in the life
of the insect wherein it takes food
for its growth. The silkworm
requires proper feeding at regular
intervals for 24-26 days from hatching
until they are ready to spin
cocoons. Provisions for suitable
temperature and humidity of the
rearing house, strict sanitation and
cleanliness, proper techniques on
disease control, sufficient space and
constant observation are necessary
throughout the rearing period.
Once
the worms mature, they are gathered
and mounted on cocooning frames where
they spin their cocoons. A week
after mounting, the cocoons are
harvested.
Newly
harvested cocoons undergo post harvest
processes to ensure the quality of
silk filament extracted thereof.
The technology involves three
processes namely deflossing, sorting
and drying. Floss covering of
cocoons eliminated to prevent the easy
absorption of moisture that causes
damage to the quality of
cocoons. Drying is employed
immediately after deflossing to
prevent emergence of moth which leads
to the destruction of the continuous
length of silk filament.
Likewise, sorting is done to separate
defective from the reelable cocoons
which are further processed into
quality raw silk yarns.
Cocoon
reeling or filature is the industrial
phase of sericulture, which involves
the production of raw silk yarn for
weaving purposes. It is the process of
unwinding the cocoon filaments from
cooked cocoons using the reeling
machine.
PTRI
has localized/established the
processing conditions for the
manufacture of thrown silk from the
locally produced raw silk.
The process of throwing involves the
coupling of two or more filaments
together and imparting a certain
amount of twist in accordance with
specific end-use. Different types of
thrown silk yarns could be developed
ranging from low twist tram to medium
and high twists organize suitable for
warp and weft in weaving.
The technology permits the production
of an array of silk fabrics, from
jusi/barong material to the lustrous
satin, organdy and crepe for garments
and fashion accessories.
PTRI
established a degumming technology
intended for thrown silk yarns and
silk fabrics using soap-soda method.
The process involves the removal of
waxes, oils, coloring matters and
gums, referred to as sericin, present
in the silk fibers. Elimination
of the impurities renders the material
soft and lustrous thus showing off the
good attributes inherent to silk.
Degumming can also be employed at
different degrees, e.g. partial and
complete degumming, depending on the
end use and the total effect desired
of the material.
Defective
cocoons such as pierced cocoons,
double cocoons, stained, bed stained
and soft cocoons are all unreliable.
These defective cocoons when degummed
yield the raw material for spun silk
production. The degummed wastes are
opened by hand to form slivers which
are then fed manually into the
handspinning machine. The operator of
the machine controls the thickness and
evenness of hand spun silk. The uneven
characteristic of the hand spun silk
when used as weft in handweaving gives
a special weaving design effect
enhancing the aesthetic appearance on
the woven fabric. Technology and
equipment are available in PTRI.
The
developed technology involves the
chemical modification of the castor
bean oil into textile oil and its many
versatile applications in the textile
and textile related industries. It
involves the conversion of the oil
into textile oil through the
sulfonation process. The developed
product at specified concentrations
is applied as wetting and softening
agents for indigenous fibers,
anti-static agent for the re-reeling
of raw silk, dispersing agent for
polyester dyeing and softener for
leather.
The
PTRI has developed a technology on the
extraction of sodium alginate from
sargassum seaweeds. The technology
involves formalin pretreatment, acid
treatment, maceration in alkaline
medium, filtration, alcoholic
precipitation and drying. The
established method produces an extract
that is used as thickener in
silkscreen or roller printing and
exhibits comparable properties and
performance in terms of solubility,
ease of preparation and colorfastness
of the printed fabrics to the
commercial sodium alginate thickener
used by some textile mills.
This
portable handloom was developed in
support to the improvement of the
handloom weaving industry and the
government program on uplifting the
welfare of disabled persons. Aside
from the therapeutic benefits, the
handloom could enable disabled persons
generate income and become significant
contributor to employment generation
and foreign earnings. The 36"
portable loom is adaptable to the
wheel chair and is easily and
comfortably manipulated by hand.
Unlike the conventional foot pedal
handlooms, shedding, weft insertion
and beating could be done by hands.
This loom is capable of producing a
maximum of 36-inch width fabric as in
apparel and other textile products.
This would definitely support the
program of the government in promoting
the welfare of the recorded 55,000
paraplegics ages from 15-69. If 20% of
them will engage in weaving of
placemats, shawls or equivalent
product, P 671M could be generated.
Furthermore, if 50% of the actual
production is exported the country
could generate USD 146,000 in gross
receipts.
Handloom
woven product is one of the
non-traditional export contributors of
the country's foreign earnings. This
technology is designed to assist the
weaving industry in improving the
external appearance of the fabric by
diversifying the design through the introduction
of 4-harness designing, color
combination and material elements
focusing on the indigenous fibers.
The technology on designing can create
a variegated and appealing texture
with definite commercial possibilities
over the traditional, stereotype
designs of the handloom woven fabric.
This will ensure product
competitiveness in terms of price,
quality and fashion needs which will
result to increase in added value and
export earnings for the industry.
The
technology involves weaving fine abaca
fibers to a predetermined fabric
construction, followed by chemical
treatment and repeated mechanical
softening by pressing thus imparting
to the fabric the desired flattened,
supple compact appearance. The use of
a motorized rotary press for the
purpose assures faster and more
efficient quality control of the
finished material than the traditional
normal hammering process using the
wooden mallet. Since the process does
not limits its utilization to abaca
but also to pineapple and other
indigenous products this would ensure
production of a wide variety of soft
and smooth materials for apparel,
shoes, bags, interior design
materials, gifts and house wares and
fashion accessories for the generation
of foreign exchange earnings.
Pinukpok
processing technology finds best
applications in the Bicol region where
53,508 hectares of land area or 50% of
the country's total abaca plantation
are planted to abaca. It will
alleviate poverty of the abaca
farmers, laborers and their dependents
who are enduring submarginal existence
brought about by limited demand of
cordage and other abaca products. It
would also improve the quality of life
of more than 3,000 handloom weavers in
the same region because of the higher
earning capability brought about by
increased usability and high price of
finished products. Instead of
producing sinamay which costs only
P10.00 per yard, a weaver could
produce abaca fabric for pinukpok for
could be commercialized up to P400.00
per yard.
The
process will increase the growing
demand for indigenous garments in the
world market thus, generating
additional foreign exchange earnings
for the government. It will also
enhance the country's competitiveness
as it utilizes abaca fibers abundantly
produced at 60,000 metric tons per
annum which is 85% of the world abaca
production.
The
technology involves pretreatment
process (scouring and/or bleaching)
and the proper dyeing procedures using
the prescribed dyestuff for particular
types of fibers. The technology shall
enhance the aesthetic appeal and
improve the quality of indigenous for
handicraft products which serve as one
of the major dollar earners of the country.
The
pretreatment and dyeing technology
will promote the growth of fashion
accessories (FA), Christmas decors
(CD) and gifts, toys and housewares (GTH)
sectors in the world market. The utilization
of the technology provides significant
improvement in the quality of dyed
natural materials and substantial
savings in production cost
particularly in chemicals, dyes and
auxiliaries (CDA) consumption.
Furthermore,
the technology will generate
employment in the regions considering
that FA, CD and GTH are labor
intensive.
The
technology would also encourage the
utilization of indigenous materials as
component of the above sectors.